Sonora, Mexico

Border Crossing, Roadways, Bureaucracy and Bandits:

Having made sure our Mexican car insurance for Georgie was in order (we bought online through http://www.mexpro.com), we headed to the Lukeville/Sonoyta border crossing. The Mexican border guards were friendly, courteous and professional. We received our visas without a fuss ($27 each per adult) and were told we could obtain a temporary importation permit for Georgie (a necessary document if you want to take a vehicle further into Mexico than Baja or Sonora) just south of Caborca.

Instead of heading straight there we took a detour to Puerto Peñasco for the weekend to play some gigs and catch up with friends we made back in the summertime. On Monday morning we took the ‘short cut’ route to Caborca (alongside the railway toward El Desemboque then cutting east to Caborca) instead of returning to Sonoyta and taking the highway down as recommended by our friends. We saved on miles, but not on time. The road resembled a lunar landscape at times, so we had to crawl along lest we bust our suspension or burst a tire in one of the gaping potholes (not everyone is that cautious; buses, trucks and local cars bounced past us at tremendous speeds – only one of which we passed changing a shredded tire further along the road).

There was a customs post on this road, and the customs officer was more the standard stereotype we had been told to expect by Fox News. A bandit who wanted us to grease his palms else he would have to empty the camper in search of cash and contraband. Although tempted to suggest he merely run his fingers through his hair and his palms would be amply greased, we decided to remain polite but firm – all our papers were in order and it was getting hot, the man was alone and we have a lot of heavy, awkward stuff that he would have to  move. With a wave of the hand, he decided we weren’t the droids he was looking for and let us go on our way.

At the Banjercito office off the highway south of Caborca (just south of Pitiquito – you can’t miss it, it’s in the building next to the huge customs check post) we had to apply for Georgie’s visa. After the experience with the customs guy in the desert, we were expecting the worse (or at least to be waylaid for a long tedious time). Happily, the customs officials and staff in the Banjercito office were as helpful and efficient as their counterparts on the border. They didn’t need to see our Mexican car insurance (although, if we hadn’t had any, they surely would have – in accordance with Murphy’s Law). All they needed was passports, drivers license, visas and payment. The cost of the temporary vehicle importation permit was $59.16. We also had to pay a refundable deposit of $200, which should be returned when we leave the country (with any luck).

From there we drove on without incident to San Carlos de Guaymas on decent highways (with tolls – be prepared to pay if you don’t want to go ‘off-roading’ along the smaller byways!).

As an aside, when we checked in with various websites for places to eat/stay/play along the way, they all flashed up warnings from the American Government about bandits, robbery and murder throughout the region we were traveling in. Although I’m sure these warnings were given in good faith (the American Government scaremongering? Surely not!), all we experienced, with the exception of the one dodgy customs official, was courtesy and a warm hearted welcome from virtually everyone we met.

Where we stayed:

In Puerto Penasco we had a room in Laos Mar hotel as part of our payment for playing at the beautiful El Tapeo Wine Bar on the Friday night we were in town. We utilized the showers and Wi-Fi, but otherwise stayed in Georgie (For reasons of peace of mind and familiarity). Even though we avoid RV parks like the plague (does anyone else see the irony of owning a home on wheels and then parking it in glorified parking lots, where you’re closer to your neighbours and further from wide open spaces than you would be back at home?), when we were last in town to play some gigs, we stayed at the park attached to Playa Bonita resort (same complex as Laos Mar). Back then (in the sweltering August heat) it was deserted and actually quite nice – good facilities, beachfront, etcetera – but this time around(Thanksgiving weekend), it resembled a shanty town populated by folk forced to leave the United States for either exhibiting anti-social behavior (enjoying themselves too much and too loudly, even for America) or owning a funny little dog with a shrieking bark.

Due to a late start and customs hold-ups, on the day we left Puerto Peñasco we had to stay in a Pemex gas station over night, as we couldn’t reach our final destination. We selected one to the north of Hermosillo. It was fairly big, had a convenience store attached and was open 24 hours. We asked permission after filling up with gas and the woman who was running the store said, ‘Of course’, of course. She also suggested we park near the store so she and the other staff could keep and eye on Georgie while we slept. For Rafael, this was the best place we stayed. He awoke to the sound of air brakes and grinding gears, wide eyed and grinning. Buses, trucks and trains hurtled about outside and there were two diggers working in the back lot; heaven on wheels for a boy of nearly two years old.

In San Carlos, we found a fantastic place to hang out and stay: Marina San Carlos. Although boon docking is prohibited in the area outside the main office and Barracuda Bob’s café and bakery, there is another, quieter, area on the far side of the marina, accessed from the road where Tequilas bar and restaurant is. For the price of a cup of coffee, you get Wi-Fi and showers, and the coffee (just collect the key for the bathroom from Barracuda Bob’s). We also stayed on the beach close to the marina (follow signs for ‘beach club’ and turn right onto a dirt track between the trees just before you reach the club), and outside The Captain’s Club (after playing a gig there).

Where we played:

For all things Puerto Peñasco and Sonora all you need is Rocky Point 360. They organized both our gigs in town (at El Tapeo and a benefit concert in Las Conchas). As well as being the best resource for news and events in town, they are also amazing promoters, and great people.

El Tapeo is a wonderful wine bar with a good (outside) stage and fantastic food. Laura, the owner, is the perfect hostess, and the ambience is second to none. Here’s a review – in Spanish – of our gig there.

Banditos is a palapa style bar owned, in part, by fellow musician Roger Cline. Although we didn’t play there this time around, we played last time and had a great time. It’s a sports bar so if you like watching American football or International football (that’s soccer, the game you actually play with your feet) while enjoying or performing music, this is the place to be.

We also played a Christmas Benefit concert in Las Conchas, an exclusive residential development. The people here were friendly, receptive and generous. We really enjoyed hanging out here and feeling the community do its thing around us.

In San Carlos we played a daytime gig at Barracuda Bob’s, a fine café and bakery run by the charming and energetic Hiram. We set up on the patio and played a mellow acoustic set for the gathered throng.

Captain’s Club is another great venue we got to play at. The fish and chips were outstanding, mainly for the quality and freshness of the fish, and the stage, lighting, ambience and crew were all first class.

JJ’s Tacos not only has the best tacos in town, they also have live music to entertain the patrons. We played here on a Friday night, and received a great reception from the multi-national audience of taco munching, beer swilling partyers.

Since it’s the season, we also played at the Christmas Boutique fair down on the Marina. This was a fun way to spend Saturday morning; playing music and browsing the mix of wares, from traditional Mexican handicrafts to bandanas for doggies hand-knitted by ex-pat crafties.

What we listened to:

Leonel Soto, the Mexican singer/songwriter was in Puerto Peñasco while we were there. He stuck around to catch our gig at El Tapeo and we swapped CDs. His music is melodic, lyrical Mexican pop; well worth a listen!

The El Tapeo house band RoJo are excellent, especially when not singing in English. The house band at Banditos is also very good, with a solid drummer, wild man singer/guitarist and a bassist adept at keeping them glued together. Another fantastic band from Puerto Peñasco is Agua de Coco.

We didn’t get to hear much of the local talent in San Carlos, but we did catch The Twins, a family band consisting of two elderly cadaverous gentlemen (the eponymous twins) – who looked like a cross between Keith Richards and the Chuckle Brothers – and one of their sons, a Sancho Panza lookalike who sings and plays a mean rhythm guitar (the twins themselves play wailing electric guitar and percussion – surprisingly well!). On Sunday morning we were also lucky enough to hear Omar Arriaga, a virtuoso pianist/guitarist at Ruby Wine Bar.

Apart from Leonel’s CD, we’ve also been listening to Jia Peng Fang and the Sukey Jump Band a lot while driving the long desert roads of Sonora – one for the appropriate majesty, the other for fun!